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WHAT IS TRAINING?  Training your dog is simply showing him behaviors that you want him to do instead of behaviors that he might prefer to do. 

 

As puppies mature they learn new behaviors -- some we like and some we don't like.  So, the question is:  Do you want your dog to learn good behaviors or do you want your dog to develop behaviors on his own -- guaranteed to drive you nuts? 

 

It is important to teach your dog behaviors that you want and prevent unwanted behaviors by redirecting your dog to appropriate behaviors or confining him to areas where he cannot make mistakes until he has learned how you want him to behave. 

 

A covered dog run in your yard with shade, shelter and fresh water is a safe place for your dog whenever you are not home.  It will allow access to fresh air but will insure that your flower garden remains intact.  You will also have peace of mind knowing that your dog cannot accidentally get out or be let out of the yard.  

 

Dogs can also be left for short periods inside the house inside their crates.  However, they should not be left in such strict confinement for long periods.  Leaving a dog crated for six to ten hours during the day while you are at work and commuting is much too long.

 

We highly recommend the importance of taking dog training classes beginning with a puppy training class and then advancing to basic obedience classes as your puppy matures. 

 

If you have adopted an older dog, then the basic obedience classes are even more important because the dog might have learned inappropriate behaviors from his previous owner.  

 

Dog training classes are fun and a perfect way to begin the bonding process.  Even if you have trained dogs before, attending classes will keep you motivated and consistent.  Your trainer can also assist you with problems before they become established unwanted behaviors.

 

There are several pages in this website explaining  basic exercises to help you and your dog form a close and rewarding relationship.  Start these right away with your new puppy instead of waiting until it is five- to six-months-old as by that time your pup will have already developed behaviors, good and bad, on his own.  It's never too soon to start shaping appropriate behaviors using positive reinforcement techniques. 

 

Adult dogs love to learn new tricks, too.  The key to success is patience, consistency and lots of positive rewards.

 

BEFORE YOU BEGIN ANY TRAINING SESSION:  Always start with your dog on a leash and work in a quiet area of your home with no distractions.  You want the dog calm and able to focus completely on you.  As your dog masters each exercise, you will want to repeat them in different areas of your home, your yard, at the park or walking in your neighborhood so that he learns that these behaviors are expected regardless of the location or the distractions. 

 

Build upon each exercise slowly and remember to fall back a step or two if at any time your dog seems to have forgotten what it is you are asking.  For example:  If your dog sits every time you ask inside the house but appears to ignore you in the backyard then it simply means that he understood what you wanted inside the house but did not understand that you expect him to do the behavior when asked outside the house.  So you need to go back to the basic lesson in the new environment until the dog understands that sit means sit inside the house and also in the yard where there are more distractions. 

 

A few short lessons each day are far more productive than one long session.  Be sure you are in a good mood and that you end each lesson on a positive note, i.e., your dog does something correctly so that you can praise and reward.  You want him to be successful.  It takes time, repetition, and patience but the rewards are endless. 

 

USING FOOD TO REWARD YOUR DOG:  There are those that will argue that it is wrong to use food to reward your dog during training sessions.  The main reason given is that you do not always have food available and the dog should do it simply because you are the master and the dog is the dog.

 

While I agree that food may not always be available when you ask your dog to do something, it is a fact that if the dog gets a food reward 80% of the time, it is far more likely to respond to your wishes if it thinks a food reward might be forthcoming.

 

Food is a positive motivator -- hence the term "Positive Reinforcement Training."  Trainers that use positive reinforcement methods to train dogs are rewarded with dogs that work reliably and with enthusiasm.  Think of it as the dog's currency and ask yourself how motivated you would be to go to work if your boss came to you and said you would no longer receive compensation.

 

A positive motivation item does not always have to be food.   Drug, Bomb and Search and Rescue Dogs are trained to respond to a toy that the dog deems to have high value.  A prerequisite for a dog that works for a toy is that it has what is termed an "excessively high play drive." 

 

Often these dogs are impossible for the average person to live with.  Dogs with high play drives need to work in order to be happy.  Without a job to do these dogs are frustrated and create their own jobs that are often destructive in nature either to property or themselves, such as tail chasing, constant licking at themselves until they create sores, etc.  These dogs often become neurotic when they cannot channel their energy in positive ways.

 

Dogs that excel in sports such as agility and flyball have high play drives.  They are frequently taught to respond to a toy as the motivator.  However, that is not to say that food was not also used.

 

When I begin work with a dog, I begin with food as the motivator because that is what most dogs respond to readily.  As training progresses, toys and excessive praise are substituted.  For example, when I teach my dog to negotiate an agility obstacle, I'll start the dog out slowly leading it through the obstacle on leash with food as an enticement.  As the dog learns how to negotiate the obstacle on a verbal cue then I substitute a toy reward.  The toy is tossed out in front of the dog just as they leave the obstacle (timing is crucial).  This accomplishes two things, 1) the dog speeds up in anticipation of chasing the toy, and 2) the dog receives immediate gratification for correctly negotiating the obstacle.  I want that dog moving forward toward the next obstacle rather than looking back at me for a food treat.

 

Positive reinforcement teaches the dog to expect something pleasurable from me in response to completing a task that I've asked of it.  During intermediate training sessions and certainly in advanced training, food is used less and less but I always keep it in my "bag of tricks."  My priority is to have a dog that works reliably, quickly and, above all else, enjoys working with me.

 

ABOUT TREATS:  If your dog seems to lose interest in the treats your are using, you might need to find treats that appeal to him more.  Training treats should be very special and only given to the dog during training sessions.  Cheese, and cooked chicken and liver seem to work best for most dogs.  Cut up turkey franks also work well.  If you microwave the frank first it will be less greasy to handle.  Remember, a little goes a long way.  It doesn't take a very big treat to be a big deal to your dog. 

 

CUTTING CORNERS:  Why spend money taking classes with a professional dog trainer when there are so many training manuals and videos that make it appear very easy to get great results first time every time?  Because it is a rare individual that can pick up a book or watch a video on dog training and apply it successfully to their own situation.  Often what an amateur perceives as the problem, diagnosis and cure, is way off base.  In incorrectly applying corrective measures or asking more of a dog than it is prepared to handle, you risk catastrophic results that will be difficult to correct. 

 

While reading books and watching videos will certainly enhance your knowledge and motivate you to better results, it is imperative that you get a good foundation, as well as consistent guidance as you and your dog progress as a team.  So, please get professional help from qualified trainers before attempting to train your dog especially with regard to more advanced exercises.  It is always easier and safer to learn the correct methods rather than having to re-teach a behavior after it is established incorrectly. 

 

Professional trainers know the ins and outs of teaching dogs and teaching handlers how best to work with their dogs.  This has come from years of working with hundreds of dogs having varied personality traits.  There are no shortcuts to gaining this knowledge.  A professional can spot a potential problem before it happens and they are expert at directing human/canine teams toward success. 

 

Research your trainer well.  Watch a few of their classes before signing up to make sure you are comfortable with the methods used.  Ask how long they have been teaching and what awards or competitions they have excelled in with their dogs.  Do the people in their classes seem to be grasping the techniques?  Is the instructor clearly explaining the lessons in easy to understand terms?  Do the dogs seem to be under control and happy?  You are paying your hard earned money for the expertise of this professional and you are trusting this person to help shape the behavior of your pet so be sure that your confidence is well placed..

 

Above all enjoy the journey of learning to partner with your dog.

 

 

 

 

 


 

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